Overview
Home to Bollywood, India's fashion capital and a centre for the gem trade, Mumbai can be overwhelming, but this city of contrasts is also endlessly fascinating. Squeezed onto a small island connected by bridges to the mainland, Mumbai is India's largest city and financial epicentre, home to great wealth, extortionate real estate, glistening skyscrapers and fashion-savvy locals. But Mumbai is also a city of extreme inequality where affluence and abject poverty sit side by side. The busy streets are packed with grand colonial architecture, a myriad of temples and mosques, and many ancient bazaars. Visitors can immerse themselves in colonial history at Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or dive into modern-day life at the Dhobi Ghat; dance 'till dawn in swanky bars or hang out with a cold beer in legendary backpacker haunts; eat at some of India's best restaurants or find a sandy seaside spot to sample Mumbai's most popular snack,
bhelpuri. But however you choose to experience Mumbai, one thing is for certain: amid the colour and chaos, the city is certain to leave an impression.
History
Mumbai owes its colourful present to its equally interesting past. Originally a group of seven islands inhabited by Koli fishermen, the area was surrendered to Portugal in 1534 who in turn handed it over to Britain in 1661. Three years later, the city (then called Bombay) was leased to the East India Company who governed the area until 1858 when control passed back to the Crown. The city stayed in British hands until independence in August 1947, and it was during this 90-year period that modern Bombay really took shape.
Gateway of India
The bold basalt arch of Mumbai's Gateway of India was built by the British to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary's visit to India in 1911. Designed by George Wittet, the foundation stone was laid in 1911 but the gateway itself was not completed until 1924. The design is a mixture of Hindu and Muslim architectural styles; the pillars are similar to those found in Hindu temples and the windows derived from Islamic architecture. In earlier times, the Gateway was one of the first sights visitors arriving by boat would have seen of Mumbai. These days it attracts a colourful crowd of tourists, hawkers and beggars.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) (formerly Victoria Terminus)
Now the headquarters of the Central Railway, this magnificent terminus building (commonly known as CST or Bombay VT) was completed in 1888 for the Great Indian Peninsular Railway. Designed by the architect FW Stevens, it is one of the world's grandest railway stations and was added to the UNESCO Wold Heritage list in 2004. A wonderful mixture of Victorian Gothic, Hindu and Islamic styles, the magnificent building is awash with domes, turrets, spires and stained-glass windows, and boasts a particularly beautiful staircase. Not bad for a train station that happens to be the busiest in Asia.
Shree Siddhivinayak temple
Shree Siddhivinayak temple is dedicated to God Ganesha (Ganpati). Shree Ganesh (Ganpati) is the first to be worshipped before beginning any new project or venture as he is the destroyer of obstacles. This is Shree Siddhivinayak Ganapati Temple at Prabhadevi in Mumbai, a two-century-old Temple that fulfills the desires of the worshipers. This temple was first consecrated in November 1801.
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower
One of Mumbai's favourite landmarks, this grandiose hotel hit the headlines in November 2008 when it became a target of a terrorist attack. Although it suffered significant damage, this building has been wowing visitors to the city since 1903 and is well worth a visit. Built by JN Tata, the Parsi industrialist, after supposedly being refused entry into one of the city's European hotels for being 'a native', it has since hosted everyone from The Beatles to Bill Clinton. Even if you don't stay here, however, it's worth stopping by just to look around.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum)
Mumbai's biggest, and many would argue best, museum is housed within a grand domed building amid beautiful gardens. It was opened in 1923 to commemorate King George VI's first visit to India and was designed by George Wittet of Gateway of India fame. Inside, the eclectic collections house everything from Hindu and Buddhist sculptures and miniature paintings to weaponry and stuffed animals. The admission fee includes a helpful audio guide.
Juhu Chowpatty
Juhu Chowpatty is Mumbai's Chat (spicy street food) centre. The beach can be reached within less than an hour by road from anywhere in Santacruz, Vile Parle or Andheri. There is never a dull moment at the beach. The aroma of chat fills the air and vendors vie for your attention. The variety of fun and amusement available here is provided by professional masseurs, shooting galleries, snake charmers, pony leaders and monkey trainers. You can buy an assortment of things from balloons, flowers, seashells and trinkets as well.
Marine Drive
Marine Drive (Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Road), is a 3 km long six-lane road which runs along the shoreline of the Arabian Sea from Nariman Point past Chowpatty Beach to the foot of Malabar Hill. It is one of Mumbai's most popular promenade and a favourite sunset watching spot. It is also known as the Queen's Necklace because when viewed at night from an elevated point anywhere along the drive, the street lights resemble a string of pearls. Many restaurants and plush hotels are situated along the road.
Horniman Circle
Originally called Elphinstone Circle, Horniman Circle is the epicentre of the Fort area. It consists of James Scott's elegantly curved, arcade terraces with a garden in the middle. It was the first significant piece of the city's redevelopment, which began under the governorship of Sir Bartle Frere in the 1860s. The central gardens are open to the public and offer a lush and shady retreat from the cacophony of the streets. Following independence, the Circle was renamed Horniman Circle, after the editor of the
Bombay Chronicle, Benjamin Horniman, who was an avid supporter of Indian independence.
Town Hall
A distinguished neo-classical structure overlooking Horniman Circle, Mumbai's Town Hall was built between 1821 and 1833, to designs by Colonel Thomas Cowper. It originally stood on Bombay Green, which was the centre of the Fort area, and is one of the few remnants (along with the Mint Building) of pre-Victorian Bombay. It's an impressive structure ordered by colonnades, wrought iron staircases and parquet flooring. Today the building is used as a public library and houses over a 100,000 books, of which 15,000 are classified as rare and valuable.
Jehangir Art Gallery
Founded by Sir Cowasji Jehangir, the Jehangir Art Gallery is Mumbai's premier contemporary art exhibition space. It boasts four exhibition halls and regularly shows works by Indian artists with most works available for sale. Those artists not yet fortunate enough to have their artwork displayed inside the gallery often exhibit paintings on the pavement outside. The gallery is also home to Natesans, the country's oldest licensed antique dealers and the popular Samovar café.
Shrine of Haji Ali
Commemorating a Muslim saint who died while on pilgrimage to Mecca, the Shrine of Haji Ali rises magnificently out of the sea sparkling in the bright sunshine. Built on a tiny islet 500m (1,640ft) from the coast and linked only by a narrow causeway, access to the Shrine is only possible at low tide. The Shrine consists of a mosque and
daragh (tomb), and both are beautiful examples of Indian Islamic architecture.
Mumba Devi Temple
This old Hindu temple in the heart of Bhuleshwar Market was built to honour the city's patron deity Goddess Mumbai (after whom the English word 'Bombay' was supposed to have been derived). While not ornate or of particular architectural merit, this crumbling temple forms part of Mumbai's rich history having stood there for the last six centuries. Inside the temple, the modern shrine displays an image of the Goddess Mumbai, and a tiger, the traditional carrier of the Goddess, sits in front of the shrine.
Babulnath Temple
Perched on the northeastern end of Malabar Hill, overlooking Chowpatty Beach, a visit to Balbulnath Temple involves a steep climb (or a cheeky ride up the elevator). Located nearly 305m (1,000ft) above sea level, the ancient temple of Lord Babulnath (Lord Shiva) features elaborate carvings and a grand terrace. Devotees climb to the top to receive
darshan of the temple deity and blessings.
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